Print this articleThe right tool and the right technique can help you make holes in concrete efficiently.
Making holes in concrete doesn’t have to be hard work. But many contractors make it difficult by trying to make do with the tools they have. When you look at the time lost to using the wrong tool, the cost of that time could easily pay for the new tool or bits needed to speed the process.
That’s the consensus of power tool manufacturers who deal with contractors’ hole-making questions. Here’s how they suggest you get to . . . the hole truth.
Do you have the right tool?
We often see contractors trying to use a hammer drill to do a job that should be done by a rotary hammer,” says Spencer Maid, DeWalt commercial rotary and demolition hammer manager.
Hammer drills are intended for making holes up to 1" in concrete block, brick, or small (up to 5/8") holes in poured foundations, says Maid. “Use them for small fasteners that need holes between 5/32" and 5/8" in diameter. If you are drilling many holes over 3/8", use a rotary hammer,” he says.
“We see contractors burning up hammer drills and bits all of the time because they are using the wrong tool for the job,” says John Olson, Panasonic central regional manager. “When it comes to poured concrete, your best bet is a rotary hammer. A hammer drill is too light of a tool for making any holes in poured concrete.”
Gary Compton, Milwaukee rotary hammer manager, agrees. “Hammer drills have a difficult time making holes in concrete because the hammer drill relies on high rotational speed and a lighter impact to chip away material. A rotary hammer uses pounding force to fracture the concrete. The rotation of the bit changes the orientation of the edges of the bit’s carbide tips in the hole and augers dust out of the hole.
“The difference between a hammer drill and a rotary hammer can be compared with drumming your fingers on a table vs. pounding your fist on a table. The hammer drill impacts the work with fast, lighter blows; while the rotary hammer used powerful, slower blows,” he explains. Given that analogy, it’s easy to understand why a rotary hammer is more effective.
Size up
While it’s tempting to use a smaller tool for a slightly bigger concrete hole-making job, the tool experts recommend against it. Instead, select your tool so the job falls within the operating capacity of the tool, not near or just past the tool’s maximum operating range.
“Look at the optimum range a drill can operate, not the maximum hole it can drill, especially if you are drilling many holes,” says Maid. “Also, consider concrete hardness. If the concrete has a high compressive strength, is older concrete, or has very hard aggregate, consider using a larger tool to make the hole,” he says.
A bit about bits
Concrete bits do not drill the way a wood bit goes through wood or a jobber bit drills steel. Instead, it works by pulverizing the concrete to dust, then evacuates the dust away from the tip and out of the hole. “Drilling in concrete is, in reality, a continuous sequence of actions to pulverize the concrete and to remove the dust,” says Compton.
If you get lost in the bit aisle at your distributor, you’ll find several types of bit shanks for drilling holes in concrete. The different shank designs result from different manufacturers developing novel ways to hold and drive the bit effectively yet be able to withstand the heavy pounding and high-torque rotational forces of the tool. For most people, it’s just a matter or selecting the bit that matches the tool’s bit holder.
“You’ll find SDS or SDS+ bits made for smaller hammer drills which use the SDS Drive system. They are smaller in diameter and the most common bit in use,” says Compton.
For larger holes, you’ll find rotary hammers equipped with either a spline or SDS Max bit holder. Just order the right bit shank to match your tool. Both perform equally well, says Maid.
The cutting edges of a concrete bit are made of steel or carbide. The steel used in bits is a high-grade alloy of chromium, nickel and molybdenum and machined to size under very tight tolerances. Carbide tips are sintered micro-grain carbide and cobalt, molded into a precise tip size and shape. This combination is brazed to the flute, resulting in a very hard, durable tip.
“You can find bits in all price ranges. A good rule of thumb: You should be able to get about 100 holes per bit unless you are operating in very demanding conditions,” says Maid.
Concrete drilling tips
Milwaukee Electric Tool offers the following tips to help you make the fastest and cleanest holes in concrete:
1. Always drill dry. Never add water to the hole. The mud it makes will minimize the hammer blow and can even cause the bit to bind in the hole.
2. Clean the flutes of the bit if they become clogged. Make sure they can evacuate dust from the hole.
3. Keep the shank end of the bit free of dust or debris. Lubricate the bit shank and the bit holder to get the longest life from the tool.
4. Use the shortest bit possible for the hole being drilled. It helps maximize the amount of force transmitted from the hammer to the tip. Because the bit’s tip and flutes wear with each hole drilled, using a longer bit for shorter holes could cause the flutes farther up the shank to bind inside the hole when it is used to drill deeper holes.
5. Drill deep holes in stages. Use a shorter bit to drill the first part of the hole, then finish up with a longer bit. This can help you drill a hole faster and the hole will be straighter and more accurate. Also, it helps long, more expensive bits last longer, saving you money.
6. When drilling deep holes, back the bit out periodically to help clean dust out of the hole.
7. Do not apply excessive force while drilling. Constant, moderate pressure helps you keep the bit going straight and true.
8. If you hit rebar, STOP drilling and move the location of the hole. Or . . . verify with the building inspector or engineer that the rebar may be cut, or that it is okay if the rebar gets loosened from the hammering process.
Smaller rebar and mesh can be drilled through with a four-cutter head or a specially designed bit.
On larger rebar, use special cutter bits. Once you hit rebar, pull out the bit, then use the special cutter bit with a standard drill until you cut through the rebar. Then finish making the hole with the concrete bit.
If you must attempt to drill through rebar with the concrete bit, run the bit very slowly and with very little pressure. This allows the bit to slowly gnaw through the steel. Be aware there is a good chance the bit will suffer damage or break.
Maintain your tools
Next to using an undersized drill for a drilling job, poor maintenance practices are a leading killer of rotary hammers, says Maid.
Rotary hammers create impact through electro-mechanical or electro-pneumatic systems inside the tool. These systems transfer intense forces into concrete in a highly abrasive environment. The components that create this energy must be maintained.
“It’s important to pay attention to the maintenance intervals on these tools,” Maid says. “Too many people run them to failure when timely lubrication and cleaning would have greatly extended the life of the tool.”
The tool’s operator manual outlines appropriate maintenance intervals. He suggests you only use the type of grease recommended by the manufacturer. “Distributors often have rotary hammer tune-up specials. These are good opportunities to have the tools looked over and lubricated. When a tool is run to failure, it’s likely the rings are shot and the cylinder is damaged. At that point, the tool is ruined,” he says.
Cordless possibilities
Today’s cordless tool lines include rotary hammer units capable of making holes in concrete quickly and easily.
“Cordless tools run about twice the cost of a similar corded tool,” says Panasonic’s Olson. “They are especially handy if you are working on a lift because you don’t have to worry about extension cords. We have also found that many maintenance people like the tools because in some plants, they can’t run a power cord without having to apply for a power permit.
“Today’s cordless tools have enough power to sink Tap-Con or Wedge-Bolt fasteners. With these types of fasteners, the time savings a cordless tool can offer can easily recoup the higher initial cost,” he says.
Cordless rotary hammers come in 18-volt, 24-volt, and even 36-volt models. While they may have power that ranks with a corded tool, the weight of the battery and the tool takes some strength and definitely both hands, especially with the higher-voltage tools. “Some of the largest cordless models weigh as much as a circular saw. I don’t know too many people who enjoy holding that kind of weight over their head to do a job,” Olson says. So consider the tool’s weight against the job you will be completing.
Safety tips while making holes in concrete:
• Always wear eye protection.
• Wear hearing protection when using the tool for long periods.
• Bits get hot while operating. You may need gloves or other protection if you will handle or change bits.
• Use two hands. Although these tools are often equipped with clutch mechanisms in case the bit binds in the hole, a firm grip on the tool will help assure it does not bind and begin to spin the tool, which can cause injuries
(Source: Milwaukee Electric Tool, DeWalt)
Published in the May/June 2001 issue of Contractor Tools and Supplies.
Making holes in concrete doesn’t have to be hard work. But many contractors make it difficult by trying to make do with the tools they have. When you look at the time lost to using the wrong tool, the cost of that time could easily pay for the new tool or bits needed to speed the process.
That’s the consensus of power tool manufacturers who deal with contractors’ hole-making questions. Here’s how they suggest you get to . . . the hole truth.
Do you have the right tool?
We often see contractors trying to use a hammer drill to do a job that should be done by a rotary hammer,” says Spencer Maid, DeWalt commercial rotary and demolition hammer manager.
Hammer drills are intended for making holes up to 1" in concrete block, brick, or small (up to 5/8") holes in poured foundations, says Maid. “Use them for small fasteners that need holes between 5/32" and 5/8" in diameter. If you are drilling many holes over 3/8", use a rotary hammer,” he says.
“We see contractors burning up hammer drills and bits all of the time because they are using the wrong tool for the job,” says John Olson, Panasonic central regional manager. “When it comes to poured concrete, your best bet is a rotary hammer. A hammer drill is too light of a tool for making any holes in poured concrete.”
Gary Compton, Milwaukee rotary hammer manager, agrees. “Hammer drills have a difficult time making holes in concrete because the hammer drill relies on high rotational speed and a lighter impact to chip away material. A rotary hammer uses pounding force to fracture the concrete. The rotation of the bit changes the orientation of the edges of the bit’s carbide tips in the hole and augers dust out of the hole.
“The difference between a hammer drill and a rotary hammer can be compared with drumming your fingers on a table vs. pounding your fist on a table. The hammer drill impacts the work with fast, lighter blows; while the rotary hammer used powerful, slower blows,” he explains. Given that analogy, it’s easy to understand why a rotary hammer is more effective.
Size up
While it’s tempting to use a smaller tool for a slightly bigger concrete hole-making job, the tool experts recommend against it. Instead, select your tool so the job falls within the operating capacity of the tool, not near or just past the tool’s maximum operating range.
“Look at the optimum range a drill can operate, not the maximum hole it can drill, especially if you are drilling many holes,” says Maid. “Also, consider concrete hardness. If the concrete has a high compressive strength, is older concrete, or has very hard aggregate, consider using a larger tool to make the hole,” he says.
A bit about bits
Concrete bits do not drill the way a wood bit goes through wood or a jobber bit drills steel. Instead, it works by pulverizing the concrete to dust, then evacuates the dust away from the tip and out of the hole. “Drilling in concrete is, in reality, a continuous sequence of actions to pulverize the concrete and to remove the dust,” says Compton.
If you get lost in the bit aisle at your distributor, you’ll find several types of bit shanks for drilling holes in concrete. The different shank designs result from different manufacturers developing novel ways to hold and drive the bit effectively yet be able to withstand the heavy pounding and high-torque rotational forces of the tool. For most people, it’s just a matter or selecting the bit that matches the tool’s bit holder.
“You’ll find SDS or SDS+ bits made for smaller hammer drills which use the SDS Drive system. They are smaller in diameter and the most common bit in use,” says Compton.
For larger holes, you’ll find rotary hammers equipped with either a spline or SDS Max bit holder. Just order the right bit shank to match your tool. Both perform equally well, says Maid.
The cutting edges of a concrete bit are made of steel or carbide. The steel used in bits is a high-grade alloy of chromium, nickel and molybdenum and machined to size under very tight tolerances. Carbide tips are sintered micro-grain carbide and cobalt, molded into a precise tip size and shape. This combination is brazed to the flute, resulting in a very hard, durable tip.
“You can find bits in all price ranges. A good rule of thumb: You should be able to get about 100 holes per bit unless you are operating in very demanding conditions,” says Maid.
Concrete drilling tips
Milwaukee Electric Tool offers the following tips to help you make the fastest and cleanest holes in concrete:
1. Always drill dry. Never add water to the hole. The mud it makes will minimize the hammer blow and can even cause the bit to bind in the hole.
2. Clean the flutes of the bit if they become clogged. Make sure they can evacuate dust from the hole.
3. Keep the shank end of the bit free of dust or debris. Lubricate the bit shank and the bit holder to get the longest life from the tool.
4. Use the shortest bit possible for the hole being drilled. It helps maximize the amount of force transmitted from the hammer to the tip. Because the bit’s tip and flutes wear with each hole drilled, using a longer bit for shorter holes could cause the flutes farther up the shank to bind inside the hole when it is used to drill deeper holes.
5. Drill deep holes in stages. Use a shorter bit to drill the first part of the hole, then finish up with a longer bit. This can help you drill a hole faster and the hole will be straighter and more accurate. Also, it helps long, more expensive bits last longer, saving you money.
6. When drilling deep holes, back the bit out periodically to help clean dust out of the hole.
7. Do not apply excessive force while drilling. Constant, moderate pressure helps you keep the bit going straight and true.
8. If you hit rebar, STOP drilling and move the location of the hole. Or . . . verify with the building inspector or engineer that the rebar may be cut, or that it is okay if the rebar gets loosened from the hammering process.
Smaller rebar and mesh can be drilled through with a four-cutter head or a specially designed bit.
On larger rebar, use special cutter bits. Once you hit rebar, pull out the bit, then use the special cutter bit with a standard drill until you cut through the rebar. Then finish making the hole with the concrete bit.
If you must attempt to drill through rebar with the concrete bit, run the bit very slowly and with very little pressure. This allows the bit to slowly gnaw through the steel. Be aware there is a good chance the bit will suffer damage or break.
Maintain your tools
Next to using an undersized drill for a drilling job, poor maintenance practices are a leading killer of rotary hammers, says Maid.
Rotary hammers create impact through electro-mechanical or electro-pneumatic systems inside the tool. These systems transfer intense forces into concrete in a highly abrasive environment. The components that create this energy must be maintained.
“It’s important to pay attention to the maintenance intervals on these tools,” Maid says. “Too many people run them to failure when timely lubrication and cleaning would have greatly extended the life of the tool.”
The tool’s operator manual outlines appropriate maintenance intervals. He suggests you only use the type of grease recommended by the manufacturer. “Distributors often have rotary hammer tune-up specials. These are good opportunities to have the tools looked over and lubricated. When a tool is run to failure, it’s likely the rings are shot and the cylinder is damaged. At that point, the tool is ruined,” he says.
Cordless possibilities
Today’s cordless tool lines include rotary hammer units capable of making holes in concrete quickly and easily.
“Cordless tools run about twice the cost of a similar corded tool,” says Panasonic’s Olson. “They are especially handy if you are working on a lift because you don’t have to worry about extension cords. We have also found that many maintenance people like the tools because in some plants, they can’t run a power cord without having to apply for a power permit.
“Today’s cordless tools have enough power to sink Tap-Con or Wedge-Bolt fasteners. With these types of fasteners, the time savings a cordless tool can offer can easily recoup the higher initial cost,” he says.
Cordless rotary hammers come in 18-volt, 24-volt, and even 36-volt models. While they may have power that ranks with a corded tool, the weight of the battery and the tool takes some strength and definitely both hands, especially with the higher-voltage tools. “Some of the largest cordless models weigh as much as a circular saw. I don’t know too many people who enjoy holding that kind of weight over their head to do a job,” Olson says. So consider the tool’s weight against the job you will be completing.
Safety tips while making holes in concrete:
• Always wear eye protection.
• Wear hearing protection when using the tool for long periods.
• Bits get hot while operating. You may need gloves or other protection if you will handle or change bits.
• Use two hands. Although these tools are often equipped with clutch mechanisms in case the bit binds in the hole, a firm grip on the tool will help assure it does not bind and begin to spin the tool, which can cause injuries
(Source: Milwaukee Electric Tool, DeWalt)
Published in the May/June 2001 issue of Contractor Tools and Supplies.
A demolition hammer is similar to a rotary hammer and is used in the same way in terms of delivering hammer blows. However, a demolition hammer delivers hammering action only, unlike a rotary hammer, which can also be used to bore holes.
What a demolition hammer lacks in this regard in terms of versatility, however, they make up in punch. The demolition hammer is able to deliver more powerful blows than the rotary hammer, since it typically has about 35% more power. This is due to the fewer parts in a demolition hammer, and sometimes a longer piston stroke, as well.
While the demolition hammer delivers fewer blows per minute than a rotary hammer, the increased strength of the tool actually makes it a quicker and more efficient means of demolishing concrete and masonry.
Want to take a look at demolition hammer?
Now you see the differences.
What a demolition hammer lacks in this regard in terms of versatility, however, they make up in punch. The demolition hammer is able to deliver more powerful blows than the rotary hammer, since it typically has about 35% more power. This is due to the fewer parts in a demolition hammer, and sometimes a longer piston stroke, as well.
While the demolition hammer delivers fewer blows per minute than a rotary hammer, the increased strength of the tool actually makes it a quicker and more efficient means of demolishing concrete and masonry.
Want to take a look at demolition hammer?
Now you see the differences.
Rotary Hammers incorporate anti-theft protection.
April 19, 2005 - Rotary hammers utilize CODE! anti-theft protection system, which operates via one-touch IR remote control to protect tools against unauthorized use. Owners can enable or disable multiple CODE!-protected rotary hammers using one key. Each tool can be assigned its own key for single user or multiple keys for multiple authorized users. Integrated LED signals whether tool is enabled or disabled, and tool retains status in case of power failure...
April 19, 2005 - Rotary hammers utilize CODE! anti-theft protection system, which operates via one-touch IR remote control to protect tools against unauthorized use. Owners can enable or disable multiple CODE!-protected rotary hammers using one key. Each tool can be assigned its own key for single user or multiple keys for multiple authorized users. Integrated LED signals whether tool is enabled or disabled, and tool retains status in case of power failure...
Q: What do "SDS, SDS-MAX and Spline Shank" stand for?
A: SDS stands for Schnell Drilling System or Slotted Drive System. All modern rotary hammers use one of three types of bit: SDS, SDS-MAX, and SPLINE SHANK.
SDS is also and confusingly called "SDS-Plus" and often written "SDS+". They are all the same SDS shanks are slotted and have curved recesses all of which lock nicely into the chucks of "SDS rotary hammers." They are the smallest of the three shank types, so the biggest diameter SDS bits you'll find are about 1-1/8 inch.
A: SDS stands for Schnell Drilling System or Slotted Drive System. All modern rotary hammers use one of three types of bit: SDS, SDS-MAX, and SPLINE SHANK.
SDS is also and confusingly called "SDS-Plus" and often written "SDS+". They are all the same SDS shanks are slotted and have curved recesses all of which lock nicely into the chucks of "SDS rotary hammers." They are the smallest of the three shank types, so the biggest diameter SDS bits you'll find are about 1-1/8 inch.
SDS-MAX is the "super colossal" version of SDS-Plus. SDS rotary hammers drill and pound bigger holes (up to 2") with longer bits (up to 28" or so). SDS-MAX hammers have lots of power, so not only is the hammer drilling faster, the chipping function is extremely useful. Most of these large rotary hammers, however, cannot be used as plain drills like their smaller (SDS+) cousins. They have just two "modes": "hammering with rotation" or "hammer only," and the same is true of almost all Spline Shank hammers.
Spline Shank is a bit more confusing because the drill bits for this system have a different-looking shank than the chisels. The drill bits have fins (or "splines") at the end of the shank while the chisels and other hammer tools have a hex shank with a deep indent on one side for the lock. But if the bit says "spline," it is, and it'll fit these tools.
Q: Can I fit a larger size chuck to my drill?
A: No. The design and specification of a drill motor is such that it is directly related to the maximum size of hole you can drill. Fitting a larger chuck would overload the motor and cause damage that would not be covered by any warranty.
Q: Can I fit a standard drill bit into my rotary hammer chuck?
A: Yes, but you have to use an auxiliary 3 jaw chuck adapter and you do it.
Q: Should I buy a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?
A: It depends on your job requirements. Although both tools are designed for drilling in masonry, they accomplish this in different ways. Most hammer-drills utilize a spring-loaded mechanism that requires the operator to place pressure on the bit. These bits have cutting edges that cut with light, breaking blows while they rotate. Hammer-drills are designed for small holes or medium-sized holes in soft aggregate concrete.
Rotary hammers deliver constant, heavy mechanical blows regardless of operator pressure supplied. They use a piston mechanism instead of a special clutch. And what they deliver isn't a "jab" any more -- it's a real punch. You can drill much bigger holes, much faster. Rotary hammers have such force, in fact, that the usual masonry bits are no longer adequate. Their smooth shanks would be pounded loose from the tool's chuck in a few seconds. They need special bits which can lock into the rotary hammer, and keep on spinning while smashing away.The operator simply has to provide enough force to hold the tool in place. Rotary hammers use bits that drill all masonry products and even hard aggregate concrete, granite or quartz. Also they can be outfitted with chisels for chipping masonry.
Q: Can I fit a larger size chuck to my drill?
A: No. The design and specification of a drill motor is such that it is directly related to the maximum size of hole you can drill. Fitting a larger chuck would overload the motor and cause damage that would not be covered by any warranty.
Q: Can I fit a standard drill bit into my rotary hammer chuck?
A: Yes, but you have to use an auxiliary 3 jaw chuck adapter and you do it.
Q: Should I buy a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?
A: It depends on your job requirements. Although both tools are designed for drilling in masonry, they accomplish this in different ways. Most hammer-drills utilize a spring-loaded mechanism that requires the operator to place pressure on the bit. These bits have cutting edges that cut with light, breaking blows while they rotate. Hammer-drills are designed for small holes or medium-sized holes in soft aggregate concrete.
Rotary hammers deliver constant, heavy mechanical blows regardless of operator pressure supplied. They use a piston mechanism instead of a special clutch. And what they deliver isn't a "jab" any more -- it's a real punch. You can drill much bigger holes, much faster. Rotary hammers have such force, in fact, that the usual masonry bits are no longer adequate. Their smooth shanks would be pounded loose from the tool's chuck in a few seconds. They need special bits which can lock into the rotary hammer, and keep on spinning while smashing away.The operator simply has to provide enough force to hold the tool in place. Rotary hammers use bits that drill all masonry products and even hard aggregate concrete, granite or quartz. Also they can be outfitted with chisels for chipping masonry.
Now you see what you should buy for your job.
Click here <== for Excellent Rotary Hammer
Q: What is a depth rod?
A: It is a Rod mounted to the drill and lets you know when the bit reaches the desired depth.
Q: Some rotary hammers has the capability of variable speed. What is the advantage of having it?
A: Variable speed selection allows you to adjust the drill for specific jobs. Use high speed for small holes and low speed for large holes.
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Google has a new system that makes it possible, forthe first time in the history of the world, to deposit 5 bucks, write a couple of ads, and instantlyget access to over 100 million people - in less than10 minutes.
It's called Google AdWords and it's HOT. In fact it may be the first and best thing to do to get traffic to your site.
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A rotary hammer is designed to drill into steel, concrete, brickwork or hard masonry of all types. It is important that you read the instructions before using a rotary hammer. The tool could injure you and damage property if used inappropriately.
Warning: Plan your work and do not use the tool on ladders. A rotary hammer should only be used on a proper work platform or scaffold.
You must use the following safety equipment:
Goggles or safety spectacles,
Ear defenders for noise pressure,
Face mask if drilling dust producing material,
Gloves.
Before using the rotary hammer:
=======================
Check the cables, plugs and all equipment is sound and ready for use.
Do not use any cables, plugs or equipment that is damaged or looks faulty.
Check that the plug is correct for the electrical supply being used and that is without damage.
Do not use taped or repaired cables connections.
You must wear a dust mask and goggles ( or spectacles ) whenever you are cutting a material that causes dust.
Rotary hammers are likely to cause noise in excess of 85 DB(A), it is therefore necessary to wear ear defenders.
Any person working adjacent will also need to wear ear defenders and possibly a dust mask.
Always use the stabiliser and side handle. Adjust it for comfortable working position.
Only use the correct type of SDS or appropriate drill type for the rotary hammer.
Never try to enlarge an existing hole the drill will jam.
Make sure that the drill has the capacity to drill the size of hole you require.
Always disconnect the drill before changing the drill bits or chisels.
If you are drilling through and outside wall, make sure that the rubble or debris from drilling
will not harm any person or property on the other side.
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Do not use the drill in an explosive, gas concentrated or inflammable environment. The sparks from the armature could cause any explosion or fire!
Understand all of the controls and functions of the drill before use.
** Electrical Safety **
For 240 Volt rotary hammers:
Use a residual current devices ( RCD ) plugged directly into a fused 240 volt power socket.
This will help to minimise the risk of an electrical shock by disconnecting the power if an earth
fault or short circuit is detected.
The RCD will need to have the test button pressed from time to time, at least before starting each work task. Reset the RCD according to the manufactures instructions.
The RCD will not protect you from a shock if you drill into the extension or appliance cable.
If you need to use an extension cable, do not use a cable longer than 30 metres ( 100 feet )
because of voltage drop.
Plug the drill into the RCD supply.
Lay any extension cables carefully to avoid sharp objects, liquids or positions that traffic might
traverse over if you work outdoor.
Unroll the extension fully or the cable can overheat and catch fire!
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For 110 Volt rotary hammers:
------------------------------
Plug the transformer into a fused power socket with an earth potential.
Make sure the transformer is the correct type and current load for the machine. Make sure that the transformer is sound and undamaged.
Do not use a long extension because of voltage drop, 30 metres maximum
Lay extension carefully to avoid sharp edges and liquids. If vehicles are likely to traverse the
area do not lay cable on the ground level.
Using Machine:
===========
Check that there are no hidden gas pipes or electric cables with pipe or cable locator.
This is a powerful tool. Switch it off if the tool sticks or seems unsafe.
Make sure you are using the right drill bit or chisels.
Tighten up your hands and arms muscles to get used to the torque of the machine.
Withdraw the drill to clear the dust and debris from the hole.
If the drill sticks, stop the machine and unwind by hand.
Do not try to reverse the machine when it is running.
Be careful when blowing chips or debris from the hole.
Keep the air vents on the machine clear and unblocked.
After work:
========
Clean your work platform, the rotary hammer.
Put the rotary hammer back to its case and put it away.
If the machine does not work properly, return it to the stores or hire supplier.
Note them all the problems of the rotary hammer.
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Warning: Plan your work and do not use the tool on ladders. A rotary hammer should only be used on a proper work platform or scaffold.
You must use the following safety equipment:
Goggles or safety spectacles,
Ear defenders for noise pressure,
Face mask if drilling dust producing material,
Gloves.
Before using the rotary hammer:
=======================
Check the cables, plugs and all equipment is sound and ready for use.
Do not use any cables, plugs or equipment that is damaged or looks faulty.
Check that the plug is correct for the electrical supply being used and that is without damage.
Do not use taped or repaired cables connections.
You must wear a dust mask and goggles ( or spectacles ) whenever you are cutting a material that causes dust.
Rotary hammers are likely to cause noise in excess of 85 DB(A), it is therefore necessary to wear ear defenders.
Any person working adjacent will also need to wear ear defenders and possibly a dust mask.
Always use the stabiliser and side handle. Adjust it for comfortable working position.
Only use the correct type of SDS or appropriate drill type for the rotary hammer.
Never try to enlarge an existing hole the drill will jam.
Make sure that the drill has the capacity to drill the size of hole you require.
Always disconnect the drill before changing the drill bits or chisels.
If you are drilling through and outside wall, make sure that the rubble or debris from drilling
will not harm any person or property on the other side.
Click => TUV approved quality rotary hammer at factory low price!
Do not use the drill in an explosive, gas concentrated or inflammable environment. The sparks from the armature could cause any explosion or fire!
Understand all of the controls and functions of the drill before use.
** Electrical Safety **
For 240 Volt rotary hammers:
Use a residual current devices ( RCD ) plugged directly into a fused 240 volt power socket.
This will help to minimise the risk of an electrical shock by disconnecting the power if an earth
fault or short circuit is detected.
The RCD will need to have the test button pressed from time to time, at least before starting each work task. Reset the RCD according to the manufactures instructions.
The RCD will not protect you from a shock if you drill into the extension or appliance cable.
If you need to use an extension cable, do not use a cable longer than 30 metres ( 100 feet )
because of voltage drop.
Plug the drill into the RCD supply.
Lay any extension cables carefully to avoid sharp objects, liquids or positions that traffic might
traverse over if you work outdoor.
Unroll the extension fully or the cable can overheat and catch fire!
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For 110 Volt rotary hammers:
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Plug the transformer into a fused power socket with an earth potential.
Make sure the transformer is the correct type and current load for the machine. Make sure that the transformer is sound and undamaged.
Do not use a long extension because of voltage drop, 30 metres maximum
Lay extension carefully to avoid sharp edges and liquids. If vehicles are likely to traverse the
area do not lay cable on the ground level.
Using Machine:
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Check that there are no hidden gas pipes or electric cables with pipe or cable locator.
This is a powerful tool. Switch it off if the tool sticks or seems unsafe.
Make sure you are using the right drill bit or chisels.
Tighten up your hands and arms muscles to get used to the torque of the machine.
Withdraw the drill to clear the dust and debris from the hole.
If the drill sticks, stop the machine and unwind by hand.
Do not try to reverse the machine when it is running.
Be careful when blowing chips or debris from the hole.
Keep the air vents on the machine clear and unblocked.
After work:
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Clean your work platform, the rotary hammer.
Put the rotary hammer back to its case and put it away.
If the machine does not work properly, return it to the stores or hire supplier.
Note them all the problems of the rotary hammer.
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A hammer-drill uses 2 grooved plates that rotate opposite of each other. When they slip and the grooves connect, a bang is heard. This bang "hammers" the chuck, which in turn, drives the bit into the masonry material.
A rotary hammer is extremely more efficient than a hammer drill, because it drives a piston that pounds the chuck with measurable impact energy.
There's really no question which is better. Hammer drills are loud and cheaper. rotary hammers are bigger, quieter, more expensive, and do the job in 95% less time, with less effort.
A rotary hammer is extremely more efficient than a hammer drill, because it drives a piston that pounds the chuck with measurable impact energy.
There's really no question which is better. Hammer drills are loud and cheaper. rotary hammers are bigger, quieter, more expensive, and do the job in 95% less time, with less effort.
Power tool, rotary hammer information
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Blogger of RHC - manufacturer of rotary hammers, power tools...
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