Hello there i am jeff and i am 17 years old i jsut recently got my frist car which was a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger with a slant six in it. 225 Cubic Inches. I am wondering how i can make my car very loud to let people know at school my car ant a joke i am sick of everyone calling it a Beaner Mobile. I also would like to know how i can improve my acceleration as fast as possible i would like to go cheap but i am willing to do anything i can, i am very dedicated in rebuilting my dart. It is all stock i herd a cherry bomb for loud and air shocks will help in the back to raise a little. What are your ideas understand i still want to be able to drive around town i jsut want that loud car that has the acceleration. I do "not" want to make holes in my car to make it lighter. Thanks for you reading this and your input would be awsome. My dad has been rebuildign cars along time i got a auto shop i can use that my dad freind knows, just want to make it louder first. Thanks agian! -Jeff

Hi All, I found my way here from a guy who runs w/a in a high performance Subaru powered sand rail. I'm all ears to learn the secrets of your accumulated knowledge. I drive a n/a fuel injected Jeep Cherokee, and my wife a plain vanilla Subaru Outback, also n/a and injected. What are the advantages of water/alcohol injection for our vehicles? I have a rudimentary idea about the hi-po sand rail. Is there a "w/a injection 101" here on the site, or can you point me to such an overview? Thanks guys! Don in the Mountains of West Virginia

hi everybody, my question too you all is. When im driving my nissan terrano td 27 during daylight, then it doesn't want t00 drive proppely(it seems too be choking), sometimes it even dies. During the night it doesn't give me any problems. Some say there's something wrong with my feultank, then others say it's my gearbox. Im really tired of this problem, so that's why i seek ur help now.

Howdy About to install my stage one kit using my Xede piggyback computer to control the on/off. Now looking at the relay, the pressure switch is switching _ground_ through pin 85. My Xede has a _positive output_ triggered obviously to what ever i set it to. So I assume i simply connect pin 85 to ground, and where the + 12v ignition source normally connects to pin 86, connect my Xede output signal instead. Does this sound right to everyone? Obviously pin 30 (+12v battery) and pin 87 (output) remain the same. Thanks in advance everyone. Doc

I am looking into your direct port setup, and wondering what the trade off is between the direct port setup, and my current setup which is about 10" from the throttle body. I am wondering about charge cooling, and if moving to a direct port will cool as well. My current setup is a single m7 but its no longer enough but quite a bit. So, I was thinking of picking up either the direct port kit or on of the new outside mount jets and just running 2 fairly large ones. I am looking to get the best of both worlds as far as cooling and octane/fuel benefits. Thoughts, ideas? Thanks in advance.

I have a KZ440 twin cylinder that I'm boring and stroking out to about 460-480cc, so the compression ratio will be about 10-10.5:1 (it's 9.2:1 from the factory). I'm using a small K03 turbo off a VW 1.8T. I'm not planning on running much boost, probably around 5psi. As far as control, I could either have it single stage boost actuated or I could run a progressive kit off of the system voltage, since I have a capacitor (battery eliminator) and the voltage varies with throttle. Not sure, still trying to decide. Just wondering if you sell smaller pumps and nozzles for this kind of small displacement turbo application. Thanks!

Image: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e116/jpsr20det/dynos/jpsr20detp11turbo.jpg

Hello everybody new member here. I still have a slight rattle on cruise with slight acceleration on my olds 355 with 10 to 10-1/2 compression in a 1970 olds cutlass. I have bumped back the timing back a tad and it has helped but want to run a menthanol inj kit to help boost hp and octane. I currently run 94 sunoco with a lead additive. The timing now is set @ about 31* total @ 2500 rpm and i want to run about 36* total without worrying about detonation. My quench is set @ .038 which is ideal for the picky olds engine. I would need a kit that is vacuum operated that way when the engine needed it with part throttle and a drop in vacuum it would kick in. What kit will work on this engine?. Thank you

Installing this into an NA chevy silverado with cold intake, headers, and exhaust. I'm thinking of getting the universal S2. My question is: What parameters do we monitor to dial the system in? I have a real time OBDII software package to use. Also, what does this system do to the O2 fuel feedback loop? Is the O2 system going to perform the same? What settings can you recommend for best performance? FYI: I'm an Aerospace guy, Autos are a hobby only. Thank you

My head hurts just thinking about it, but how can I calculate appx nozzle sizes when it comes to nitrous injection? Anyone know? Nitrous is pretty much useless without matching it with fuel and this, hopefully, is where the alcohol injection comes in. As it stands, I'm given a 2GPH nozzle size for my engine, max revs and boost but I assume I need to go larger if nitrous were injected. How can I get some estimates as I don't want to be buying lots of different sized nozzles to find out. To complicate matters, I'm planning a dual nozzle set up (pre-turbo and post-intercooler) and if possible, stage it for off and on nitrous? Is there a rough formula I can use?

G'day Guys Settin up a new project at the moment here in Oz and wanted to ask a few questions, planning on running a stage 2 univirsal kit connected to a tps on my race demon, that side of things is too easy but size recommendations seem to be a sticking point, better to run twin nozzles under the base plate???? tuning then seems to get expensive if I have to buy half a dozen pairs of nozzles of each size so I was wondering if anyone had something similar that they had played with, she's a 327 sb full port fullies, 575 odd lift solid , 12:1 cr and 650 speed demon. last dynod on avgas @ 522 hp @ flywheel but detionation on pump fuel here in oz will kill her (did I type fuel, I mean watery looking cat piss of a grade so low youd have to spike it to start a fire in newspaper) Oh I brew my own ethonol in reasonable volumes @ 186 proof or 93%, illegal to run straight on the street but is it suitable to use in you kit or at all ????? Thanks for all info on site been very helpful. last do you guys do paypal??? cheers Paul

what water pressure do you get at minimum pump speed (when useing Progressive Controller) ? (with say D01,2 or 3 ?)

How does the "DO1" "DO2" nozzle sizing convert to gallons or milliliters per minute?

I've bought a ton of your stuff and I reccomend you all highly to all my friends in the turbo car world. But a friend of mine was building a DIY kit and I was trying to help him out. He bought(what looks like) the push lock fitting/hose you all use they look identical but are green on the ends instead of red. They are rated for 150psi and for AIR or GAS only... This seemed odd to me because every thing including the hose looks identical to the stuff DevilsOwn uses. So I went and looked online and all of them seem to not be rated for fluids? I couldn't find any push lock fittings like you all use that were fluid rated? Now I know what your thinking... and I'm not out to try and one up you all or your sight. I just don't want to be a part of installing a system on someones car that causes it to burn to the ground... ;) SO basically I'm just asking if I should tell him to scrap these fittings or if they are all pretty much the same... Thanks!

Hello all, I'm going to be doing a water/alcohol injection setup on my turbo diesel 1KZ-TE. I will try to provide as much info as possible on how this effects my truck. I have a few questions, maybe I could get help with... First is where I should mount my nozzle. I'm going to do dual nozzles and I'm wondering where to put my second nozzle. I was thinking of putting it shown here in this pic.. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3135/3047888271_9d8c34b3f6_o.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3179/3028239340_2396cf6172_b.jpg Is it ok that the nozzle is before the throttle plate? I'm also trying to figure out what kit to get... maybe a devils own admin can help me... There is the 4 cylinder turbo diesel kit.... but I want dual nozzle setup and I notice that the stage one diesel setup comes with a dual nozzle setup and 3 nozzles... while the other only comes with 2 nozzles and no dual nozzle setup.. I guess it does not matter much... just get what I want right? Does the diesel stage one come with a check valve that can be put before the Y split?? I hope to get this setup up and running soon! I can't wait for the boost in performance... Another question... WI is supposed to be comparable to an intercooler... when putting on an intercooler on a 1KZ-TE, people see an improvement of as much as 10 MPG and much more... will I see something like this with WI? The reasoning for this is of course that the intercooler cools the air and makes it denser so more can fit into the cylinder.. is the same with WI? Thanks all!