Some interesting facts about the history of betta fish:

Betta Fish are said to have gotten their name from an ancient clan of Asian warriors called the “Bettah” because of a popular sport that involved the fighting of two of these warrior fish. The sport was so popular 150 years ago that it was regulated and taxed by the King of Siam. Unlike other animal fighting, betta fish fights were not to the death but until one of the betta fish stopped fighting.

According to historical accounts, Dr. Theodore Cantor received a pair of breeding Bettas from the King of Siam in 1840 and was one of the first documented studies of breeding betta fish. Several pairs of Betta fish where sent to Germany in 1896 for breeding and then in 1910, Mr. Frank Locke of San Francisco California imported several Bettas to the U.S.A. One of the fish that Mr. Locke received had unusual red fins and thinking he had discovered a new species, and named it “Betta Cambodia.” In reality, he had one of the first of the Betta splendens that had developed natural new colors and characteristics through breeding. Since than, breeders have been able to develop Bettas with all of the vibrant colors and varied fin shapes that we find today.

I was in the pet section of a large retailer when I heard someone upset that a betta fish was in the same tank as other fish because she thought they could only be keep alone. I told her that betta fish can never be kept with other betta fish because they will fight to the death and that is where the name Siamese fighting fish comes from. Betta fish can be in the same tank as algae eaters, guppies (pictured below) or corydorus catfish safely.

Hey Doc, I think my betta fish may need Prozac!!

I was surprised to see a story about betta fish on the “Advances in Physiology Education” website. It seems male betta fish are “an attractive model for the study of aggressive behavior” and the study finds that in the male Betta splendens given Prozac, that the small dose of Prozac was “sufficient to reduce the expression of specific aggressive behaviors”. Here is the webpage----> http://advan.physiology.org/cgi/content/abstract/31/4/358

Here are some common fish and aqurium terms (for betta fish or other fish too!).

CRI; Color Rendering Index
A rating used for light bulbs on a scale up to 100, where 100 is equal to sunlight.

Detritus
The organic waste matter that collects on the bottom of your fish tanks.

Fry
A fully formed baby fish.

Pectoral fins
Paired fins, one on each side of the body located behind the gill covers.

Most people first start breeding betta fish to see the breeding process themselves and see if they can do it. There are some people who breed betta fish solely to sell them but most got addicted after successfully breed their first batch of betta fry and sell their betta fish to support their habit! You see, a bettas color depends on its parents, so it becomes very addicting trying to match a male betta and a female betta with just the right coloring to complement each other.

If you are looking for an all in one betta fish breeding and care guide that will show you how to have stunning aquariums full of Betta fish that will successful breed, check out "Taking the Mystery Out of Betta Breeding" written by Tho Le. Tho Le has been passionate about Betta fish for over 10 years and has uncovered hundreds of tips, techniques and secrets about Betta fish care and breading that no one else seems to know.

In the wild Betta fish subsist almost exclusively on insects and insect larvae, they even have an upturned mouth that is well suited to snatching any unsuspecting insect that might fall into the water. Internally a bettas digestive system is geared for meat, and for this reason, live foods are the ideal diet for the betta, however they will adapt to eating flake foods and frozen and freeze dried foods. Brine shrimp, Daphnia, tubifex, glassworms and plankton are all excellent options that may be found frozen or freeze dried. If flake food is fed, it should be supplemented with frozen and freeze-dried foods, and when possible live foods.

How would you like to learn the secrets to keeping and breeding betta fish? These techniques will give you the most colorful, healthy and active fish you have ever seen.

Just check out this amazing new website for more info:

Betta Fish Secrets

The owner, Mike has just released an incredible new ebook with all his tips and techniques learned over the years in it.

Just by going to the site you can discover the most common reason betta fish become sick with disease and how 90% of the time it comes down to the same thing that can be avoided very easily.

Just make sure you take a look at this site today as he's giving away a free betta fish info gift worth $197 that has taken him months to produce!

Here's the link to the website:

Betta Fish Secrets

Betta fish use plants as a defensive strategy in their natural environments. This allows them to avoid contact with predators and other male Bettas Nervous or threatened-feeling Bettas will squeeze through close together plants to escape danger. Because of this, it is important to include some kind of plant in your Betta's tank, to reduce stress and allow it to feel that it can hide. While some people prefer artificial plants in their aquariums, live plants help to take care of harmful chemical byproducts in the tank, such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. They also perform the important function of gas exchange, keeping the water more oxygenated than an environment without plants or with artificial plants. Soft and leafy plants are preferred, to prevent damage to the Betta's scales should it squeeze between leaves or branches.

Plants do require light, however. An aquarium with live plants should have either access to sunlight or a light built into the hood. Some plants which are recommended for use with Betta fish are the floating Water Sprite, Hornwort, and Elodea. Tiger Lotus is considered good for use in tanks with breeding Bettas since it puts out a lily-pad-like leaf that sits on the surface of the water. Male Bettas use this leaf to shelter their bubble nests. Be sure to keep an eye on your Betta tank’s plants, since dead and rotting vegetation can be bad for the water quality. Java Moss and Java Ferns can thrive in uncycled bowls without any filtration. They also require low to medium light, and are thus suitable for aquariums or enclosures that cannot be put close to a window.

Live plants for your Betta tank can be found locally from some aquarium stores or ordered from the Internet. All plants should be bright green and very healthy looking. They should also be quarantined before placing them in with the fish, to make sure that they do not carry diseases or parasites that could harm your Betta Be sure to acquire plants from a reputable source. It is wise to do some research into your supplier before purchasing live plants for your Betta tank. Bettas tend to interact more with live plants than with artificial plants. Many types of artificial plants are also rough and could damage fins and scales. Unlike fake plants, real ones will also sway attractively in the water as the fish swims through them. When the time comes to clean the tank, some plants can be gently removed and rinsed if this is desired. This is particularly easy when using free floating plants like the Java fern.

For more information on beta fish plants, try visiting http://www.bettafishcenter.com, a popular website that provides tips, advice and resources on caring for betta splendens.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Munn

Does your Betta fish suffer from fin rot? The symptoms are usually pretty obvious, thinning or shredding fins, the edges turn brownish, small holes begin to appear and the poor little creature just doesn't look so hot. Well folks - that's a classic case of fin rot.

What is fin rot? Well in its simple sense, fin rot is a bacterial infection usually brought on by poor water conditions or from stress as a result of an illness.

How do you treat this infection? Normally you can treat your Betta with a fungus eliminator available at most pet stores. You should also be sure to keep your water clean and fresh. As an aid to healing apply 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt (not table salt) per gallon of water. Only add salt during water changes as it will not evaporate from water and will build up to toxic levels if added daily without changing water. Salt helps your Betta breath better which in turn speeds up recovery. To apply the fungal eliminator be sure to check the dosage on the package but normaly you would add 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water every third day until noticable improvement is seen in your fish.

Please note that salt can be used as a preventative measure on a regular basis when changing water. Use only 1/4 teaspoon per gallon when your fish are healthy to help them stay that way.
If your Betta does not improve then you may be dealing with Flexibacter columnaris which is often mistaken for a fungal infection. Columnaris is also known as cotton mouth and you should see white spots or paleness on the mouth and edges of the fins and scales. If this is the case then you will have to treat your fish with copper sulfate, antibiotics and chemicals. Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin are the common treatments. If you use carbon filters you will have to discontinue filtration during treatment as the filter will remove the medications from the tank.

Columnaris is highly contagious so fresh water changes are a must and you should vacuum your gravel. Be sure to disinfect all equipment (nets, vacuum etc) to avoid spreading the disease. In chronic cases columnaris can appear slowly and take several days before killing your fish. In acute cases it has been known to kill entire populations of fish in a matter of hours. High water temperatures helps the disease spread rapidly. Unfortnately lowering the temperature will only slow it down but will not stop it. If your Betta has columnaris be sure to get treatment quickly.

How to prevent fin rot and columnaris? You can greatly reduce all types of illnesses by following a few simple steps. Quarantine all new fish for two weeks. (pet stores are the biggest source of disease) Maintain high water quality and provide fish with a well balanced diet. Always disinfect all equipment before each use to avoid spreading bacterium. These simple steps greatly reduce stress on all your fish and stress is the single largest contriutor to disease. Common sense - sure, but many fail to look after their fish properly so it is aways worth repeating these basic tenents of fish keeping.

If you would like more information on fin rot, columnaris or several other common Betta diseases you can visit us at; Betta Fish


About the Author
The author is a lifelong Betta fish lover and you can visit his site at; Betta Fish

The key to having a successful betta fish tank is that you need to learn how to control the atmosphere for the fish. Here are a couple tips about your betta fish aquarium:

Unlike most fish, a Betta breathes air by going up to the surface of the water which means it is not necessary to have any airpump, filtration, or aeration at all in their tank. Although you won't have to buy a large, expensive aquarium for this fish, you should never keep a betta fish in a small tank either. Make sure the betta fish tank or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales.

When it comes to a betta fish tank, you need to keep in mind of the temperature, hardness, and ammonia levels. As for the temperature it should be somewhere between 75-85*F. The pH levels should stay between 6.8-7.4 and the hardness can go up to 20 dGH.

Another point to remember when it comes to caring for your Betta fish is to not over-feed them. They will not eat much at one time and if you feed them to much the remaining food will fall to the bottom and muck up their bowl.

One of the secrets to raising strong and healthy is bathing your fish in tea made from Indian Almond leaves.

The leaves also known as Ketapang or wild almond leaves in some places, comes from a tree known to produce a chemical that defends itself against insects and parasites. When the dried leaves falls into water, a strong brown dye is given off. The dye contains organic acids humic and tannins. The water which is darken to a yellowish brown (tea-like color) after a few days, is very similar to your Betta fishes' natural habitat and they will love you for it.

Humic and tannins from the Indian almond leaves lowers the pH of the water, absorbs harmful chemicals and help create a soothing and calm environment for the fish. I use the leaves to help settle my Betta fishes when I first bring them home from the aquarium, which can be quite a traumatic journey for the fishes. Even Bettas can get 'sea sick' sometimes ... you will know it when their body turn pale and rest on the tank floor all the time.

The leaves can also be used to treat bacteria infection and help the Bettas recover from injuries. Some people have used it to increase breeding frequency. The first time I discovered the healing qualities of the leaves was when one of my Betta won't eat for a few days after I brought it home. Then a friend recommended I put a square inch of the leaves into the tank and let it soak overnight. The next day, my Betta was sucking the blood worms like there is no tomorrow!

To use the Indian almond leaves, I would recommend one palm size leaf to 10 gallons of water. Soak the leaf overnight in the water and you will see the water turning brownish the next day. If you are helping your Betta fish recover from sickness, then cut one small piece of the leaf and leave it in the tank for a week.

In most places these leaves are not available freely. I do have a few trees growing outside my house. So if you desperately need them, email me at admin@tothefish.com and if I am not too busy, I can send them to you, just pay for the shipping cost.

For more information on keeping Betta fishes, please visit Betta Fish

Ong Hui Woo http://www.tothefish.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ong_Hui_Woo

Betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish are one of the most popular types of fish found in homes across the world. Their vibrant color and active lifestyle seems to draw in fish fanatics as well as those who have never had fish before. Betta’s are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don’t have a lot of time to care for them.

Once you bring your Betta’s home you should begin to familiarize yourself with their movements and typical behavior patterns. When you look at your fish after you’ve had them for awhile you’ll know if something is wrong, if they are not feeling well, or if the water in their bowl is not in the best condition simply by being observant.

1. Make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.

2. Your Betta will thrive in the cleanest water that you can provide for him. He does not require a filtration system, but you should change out a third of his water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your finned friend from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water (water that has set out for twenty four hours) is what should be used to replace the old water.

3. Do not put your Betta fish with other Betta’s. They are called Siamese fighting fish because they are, in fact, fighting fish. They will tear at one another, often causing the death of at least one fish before they stop. Betta’s can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely.

4. Use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of the bowl or jar. Allowing this debris to sit at the bottom of the jar will cause the water to become cloudy, unsanitary, and to smell awful.

5. The PH of your tank should be at exactly 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.

6. When you clean the plants, rocks, or decorations in the bowl you should never use soap on them. It’s very hard to completely rinse all soap from these items and the soap residue can harm or even kill your Betta. Instead, use warm water and an abrasive brush to clean his things.

7. Keep your Betta tank, jar, or bowl covered! Your Beta will jump and you don’t want him to end up flopping on the tabletop! Keeping the water level at least two inches from the top of the tank should also cut down on this problem.

8. Your Betta is a meat eater and likes live foods, such as brine shrimp the best. Frozen bloodworms are also a good choice for your meat eater. Most Betta fish will happily eat the Betta pellets sold at most pet stores. For a special treat every now and again you should offer some live food! You’ll have fun watching him eat it up!

9. Do not decorate your Betta bowl with rocks or marbles that may cause your Betta to get stuck between or under them. Be sure that they are a flat smooth surface that provides no risk to the health of your fish.

10. Remember that your fish is a living, breathing responsibility. You need to feed, clean, and care for your Betta just like you would any other pet. If he’s sick take him to the vet, if he’s hungry feed him, if his home is dirty, clean it.

That’s it! These ten tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish. Internet Betta Groups or library books can be a great source of information should you want to learn more about your finned friend!


Adam Short is the owner of Betta Fish Center and co-wrote the above article with Amanda Fenton. Amanda has been caring for Betta fish for over 25 years. She is a contributing writer to http://www.bettafishcenter.com - site providing information and tips on betta fish care.


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Adam_Short

Thanks for stopping by my new betta fish blog! Please visit again for tips and articles about betta fish and betta fish care.