Zebra Finches attain a size of 4" and ordinarily the Zebra Finch might reach up to 5 years in its natural surroundings, averaging out 5 to 10 years in captivity with a upper limit of 12 to 15years. Males and females are really alike in size, only are easily differentiated from each other because the males normally possess brilliant orange cheek feathers, a red bill (as unlike the orange bill of a female), and commonly more outstanding black-and-white designs. The bill is occasionally the only means to differentiate the sex of a Zebra Finch, because occasionally the orange cheek color is weakened or missing. Young by a likewise colored nesting couple might occasionally deviate from the parents color, with baby bird's of plain grey to entirely white. These fluctuations are commonly due to combined breeding between finch types someplace down the family unit particularly in pet store birds. All the same, the orange cheeks are a obstinate indication that an offspring Zebra Finch is really a male and the cheeks start to come out once the offspring are approximately two months old. Immature Zebra Finches will likewise feature a black bill, with the coloring coming out at puberty. While finches need really little time, a clean surrounding as well as fresh food and water each day is a must to prevent disease and sickness. The common cage maintenance includes every day cleanup of the water supply using chlorine free filtered water for your bird's drinking pleasure and nutrient saucers. Every 2 to 3 days exchange the paper on the bed of the cage and scatter it with approximately 1/8" of new grit. Each week wash and dry the full cage, including the perches. Make certain to disinfect the cage as instructed on the disinfectant which you can pick up from your pet store. Zebra Finches are really stout birds and nearly all sicknesses can be followed to unsuitable diet, filthy cages, and drafts. A balanced diet and a great deal of physical exercise will forestall most sicknesses. Know your birds and keep an eye on for actual drastic alterations as indications of sickness. A few signals of sickness to be mindful of are droppings that are not black and white, feathers that are ruffled up, lack of appetite, wheezing, and behaving weakly and exhausted. A few of the most common sicknesses and injuries your finch might acquire are broken wings or legs, cuts and open injuries, overgrown bills and nails, ingrown feathers, feather plucking, confinement spasms in the legs from a cage that's also little, weight loss, heat hyperpyrexia, shock, concussion, egg adhering, looseness of the bowels, mites, colds, baldness, scaly legs, sore eyes, tumors, constipation, and diarrhea. If you detect any of these signs, please get a hold of your avian veterinarian.

How To Choose The Right Bird Toys To Keep Your Pet Bird From Getting Bored
Author: Lee Dobbins
Birds are intelligent creatures with active minds and they can soon become bored if they had not kept entertained. Birds that are bored and start to exhibit a desirable behavior such as squawking a lot and pulling out all the feathers.
One way to keep your bird amused even when you're not around is to make sure that you provide him with a variety of bird toys. One thing to think about when picking out toys for your bird is whether or not the toys match with your bird size. Toys designed for small bird like a parakeet might not be safe for a large parrot because the powerful beaks of the bigger birds can easily break the toys into pieces which can be dangerous for your pet. Different sized birds do seem to enjoy different types of toys but one toy that all birds seem to like is the ladder. You want to be careful, however, that you choose the right side letter for your bird obviously smaller birds will meet once with wrongs that are closer together. Swings and hanging ring seemed to be a bit more popular for the smaller pet birds. That's not to say that larger birds don't enjoy them as some do but in general the smaller birds seem to have a lot more fun. Hang a couple in your pets cage and you soon see him swinging around and hanging from them and just having a heck of a time. The bigger birds seem to like maize toys and puzzles especially if you can put some of their favorite treats inside the toy. They also like ropes that have leather knots which they can unknot with their beaks. This gives them something to work out of their mind instead of hanging around doing nothing. Birds have the mentality of small child and just like children birds can really get enjoyment out of a play gym. You can find these In all shapes and sizes, but typically they either sit on a table on top of the birds cage and when he is out of the cage they provide him with a variety of interesting things to play on including ladders seesaws and swings. Not only will your bird entertain himself on these though probably entertain you as well! When you are shopping for bird toys there are some you might want to think twice about buying. Although most birds love mirrors and love to look at themselves, it does might not serve the purpose you want if they actually think it's another bird they may bond with their own reflection and not care so much about bonding with people. Always evaluated toy for safety purposes toys that are not well made and can come apart and harm your bird should be avoided. Also toys that have little areas that might pinch your bird's toes or that he can get his head caught and should be avoided. Remember, your bird can get his little beak into just about anything so you want and make sure the toys are tough enough so that he can't break anything off and swallow it which could be disastrous and possibly even fatal.
Your pet bird doesn't necessarily need expensive toys to play with, many birds love things like paper towel tubes and tongue depressors. Just be sure that if you do you keep your bird toy like that that you make sure he doesn't rip apart and start eating it - it might not be a bad idea to stay around and watch them whenever you give him any new toy. Because your pet bird gets bored easily you want to rotate his toys. Put a few toys in his cage and then hide the others away where he can't see them. After a week or two remove the toys that are in his cage and replace them with the ones you hid away. You can take this opportunity to clean the toys that he has already played with, then hide them away for a week or two. When you bring them out again he'll think he's got new toys to play with!
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-choose-the-right-bird-toys-to-keep-your-pet-bird-from-getting-bored-81398.html
About the Author:
Lee Dobbins writes for http://pet-birds.pet-breeds.com where you can learn more about caring for your pet bird.

The Blue-and-gold Macaw, is a member of the group of prominent tropical parrots known as macaws. It breeds in the forest and timberlands of tropical South America from Trinidad and Venezuela south to Brazil, Bolivia, and Paraguay. It extends into Central America, where it is limited to Panama. It is an endangered species in Trinidad, has probably been eradicated from western Ecuador, and is on the verge of being eradicated from Paraguay, but still remains widespread and fairly common in a large part of mainland South America. It is therefore listed as Least Concern by BirdLife International as a threatened species. It can reach 30-33.6 inches long and weighs 2-3 lbs, making it one of the largest parrots in the world. It is brilliant in appearance with blue wings and tail, black chin, golden underparts and a green forehead. Its beak is jet black and very strong for crushing nuts. The naked face is white, turning pink in excited birds, and lined with small black feathers. The Blue-and-gold Macaw mostly mates for life. It nests at the top of tree trunks and the female usually lays two eggs. The young are born without feathers; but, at ten weeks, they are covered with feathers and the wings and tail have achieved their full length. Baby macaws have black eyes, but the color changes over time from black to gray to white to yellow as an adult bird. At six months, it is hard to distinguish the young from the parents. The Blue-and-gold Macaw uses its mighty beak for cracking nutshells, and also for climbing up and dangling from trees. They necessitate a wide-ranging diet, a seed only diet will lead to health problems such as vitamin deficiency. An example of a good diet would be a prime pelleted mix for Macaws, in concurrence with a mix featuring seed, nuts, and dried fruits, with fresh vegetables and fruits fed regularly; furthermore, it is quite common to partake with their human owners of safe foods like pasta, bread, etc. There are some foods which are deadly to birds and parrots as a group. Cherry and most other Rosaceae pits and seed, avocados, chocolate, and caffeine are among the foods harmful to parrots. Chocolate and caffeine are not metabolized by birds the same way they are in humans, Rosaceae seed contain cyanogenic glycosides and avocados contain persin which are both poisonous compounds to birds. Blue-and-gold Macaws are popular as pets partly because of their striking appearance and ability as a talking bird; however, the price of a single bird may be in excess of (USD) $900-$2,000 in North America and their large size makes adjustment problematic. The blue and gold Macaw (Ara ararauna)is from the Class: Aves, Order: Psittaciformes, Family: Psittacidae, Genus: Ara, Species: ararauna.

The American Robin (Turdus migratorius) is a migratory songbird of the thrush family. The American Robin is a common occupant of residential areas during the breeding season. In Fall and Winter, it can be found in large, somewhat nomadic flocks in areas with lots of fruiting trees. The length of the full grown Robin is approximately 8.5-9.5 inches from its beak to its tail. The male has a brownish orange-red breast, brownish gray upper parts, blackish head, and a broken eye ring around the eyeball. The female Robin is usually smaller then the male and has a more paler color. Robins live in North America from Georgia to Alaska and in the winter some fly as far south as Mexico. When the Robin migrates to the south in the winter it is one of the first birds to migrate to the north in the spring. The Robin often sings very early in the morning. The Robin is one of the first bird species to lay eggs, and begins to breed shortly after returning to its summer home from its winter home. Robins like to return to the same nesting places each year. Its nest consists of long strands of grass, stems, paper, and feathers, and is smeared with mud and often cushioned with grass or other soft materials. The female usually lays three to six blue eggs and sits on the nest while the male helps feed them once they are hatched. Robins like to eat fruit, berries, and insects. The Robin is from the Kingdom: Animalia, Phylum: Chordata, Class: Aves, Order: Passeriformes, Family: Turdidae, Genus: Turdus, Species: T. migratorius. To hear the Robins song go to: http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/BirdGuide/American_Robin.html#sound. And then click on sounds.

The above picture is of an Eastern Bluebird. The bluebird is one of the best loved songbirds of North America. The bluebird is approximately 7-8 inches long from the tip of it's beak to the end of it's tail. Bluebirds are attractive birds with blue, or blue and red, plumage. The female of the species is paler in color. Bluebirds migrate to the south in the winter and migrate back north in early spring. The bluebird usually builds it's nest in farmyards, gardens, and open grassland areas with scattered trees. But bluebirds also like to leave near human dwellings. The male bluebird attracts the female by singing and flapping it's wings. The female bluebird is the nest builder while the male at times will bring her insects while she is sitting on the eggs or caring for the young. The female usually lays approximately three to six pale blue or white eggs. The bluebird lives on insects and wild berries. The bluebird belongs to the Kingdom: Animalia, Phylum: Chordata, Class: Aves, Order: Passeriformes, Family: Turdidae, Genus: Sialia. To hear the bluebird singing go to:http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/BirdGuide/Eastern_Bluebird.html#sound and click on listen to songs of this species.

The Cardinal is sometimes called the redbird. The Cardinal is found in both North America and South America. The Cardinal in North America lives mostly in the eastern United States from South Dakota, southern Minnesota, and Connecticut southward to Florida and the Gulf of Mexico. The Cardinal can also be seen in certain parts of the western states. The cardinal grows to about 8.5 inches long. The head of the cardinal has a crest of feathers that stick up. The male cardinal is mostly red with a grayish tinge on their back side. The female cardinal is more of an olive grayish brown with red highlights in their tails, wings, and crests. Male and female cardinals have reddish orange or bright red bills. Cardinals mate in early spring. Cardinals like to make their nests in the lower branches of trees. the nests are built with grass, dead leaves, and stems. They usually lay from two to five eggs which are white with colored speckles. Cardinals usually feed on seeds, wild berries, and insects. The classification of the cardinal is: Kingdom:Animalia;
Phylum:Chordata; Class:Aves; Order:Passeriformes; Family: Cardinalidae
To hear the song of this bird go to: http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/BirdGuide/Northern_Cardinal.html click on listen to songs of this species.

The common brown creeper lives in North America. Their breeding habitat is mature forests, especially conifers, in Canada, Alaska and the northeastern and western United States. They are frequently observed in the southern part of the United States in the winter. They forage on tree trunks and branches, typically the bird moves around the tree upwards from the bottom of a tree trunk up, and then flying down to the bottom of another tree. They creep slowly with their body flattened against the bark, probing with their beak for insects and spider eggs. The brown creeper is smaller then a sparrow. The brown creeper has brown plummage with white streaks. The female usually lays four to seven white eggs with spots of brown on them and incubation lasts about two weeks. The creeper belongs to the family Certhidae. The brown creeper to genus Certhia, species americana. To hear the song of this bird go to: http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/BirdGuide/Brown_Creeper.html
click on listen to songs of this species.

The parakeet is a small member of the parrot family. Parakeets belong to the family Psittacidae. They are brightly colored, with yellow, orange, blue, red, green or purple feathers. You can distinguish the sexuality of the grownup parakeet by the color of the skin at the nostrils. In the male the skin is purplish-blue, while in the female it is brownish. Parakeets are clever and affectionate pets. They are able to do many acrobatic and interesting tricks on seesaws and toy ladders. A parakeet can be trained to talk and it is best to start training when they are a few weeks old. When training the parakeet to talk you should repeat the word or words over and over again until the parakeet also repeats the word or words.
Quite a few people enjoy the hobby of breeding parakeets for fun and for profit. The best breeding time for parakeets is in the spring because birds hatched in the spring will benefit from the warmth of the summer. The eggs from the female usually hatch in about 18 to 20 days. The female parakeet usually lays about five eggs. Fruit and seeds are the main parakeet's foods.

Caring For Parakeets
By Nancy Richards

Caring for parakeets is the most important step in keeping
parakeets as pets. Remember their immune systems can be touchy.
This means that at the first sign of illness, you should contact
your veterinarian immediately. Even a simple virus can turn
deadly overnight. A regular care and checkup of your parakeet
can keep you away from visiting the vet too frequently. Caring
for parakeets means

A regular checkup of their plumage - birds keep their plumage
in peak condition by preening. You can encourage this by
occasionally misting it with warm water.
Selecting the right cage for your parakeet - choose a cage that
is large enough to allow it plenty of exercise. Most cages come
with 2 perches. For more specialized caring for parakeets, you
can attach a cuttlebone to the side of the cage. It will help
keep the bird's beak in good condition and will serve as a
source of calcium and other minerals.
A proper and adequate diet – this is the single most notable
aspect in shaping the health, vitality, and permanence of your
parakeet. Give them leafy green vegetables, rice, tofu, some
seeds and fruits like orange and papaya. These would give them
all the required nutrients to keep them healthy.
Regular bathing of your parakeet – give your parakeet a regular
shower of 5-7 times a week in the summer and 3-5 times a week
during the winter. This routine will help you keep your parakeet
clean and avoid skin related diseases.
Proper grooming of your parakeet – proper and regular trimming
of the toenails is very essential. Consult a veterinarian if you
wish to clip its wings.
Lack of parakeet care can result in feather plucking, moody and
ill-trained parakeets at home. It is always a good idea to know
what injuries and what diseases can affect your parakeet, what
is the ideal diet for a parakeet, how many times a week should
you give it a bath. These would help you undertake foolproof
caring for your pet parakeets.

A healthy parakeet is more likely to be immune to diseases and
can stay around for a long time to make you laugh, make you
entertained and give you a moment to smile…

About the Author: The author is a parrot lover for the last 12
years and is the owner of the website http://www.pet-parrots.com
Source: www.isnare.com


Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=838&ca=Pets

Considering a Pet Bird? Ask Yourself These 7 Critical Questions
| by Simon Blake | September 22, 2005
Birds can make wonderful pets and companions and there are many different birds to choose from. Two of the most popular are cockatiels and parakeets. Cockatiels and parakeets make wonderful pets that only require simple daily care. They don't take up a lot of space, they eat small amounts of food, and they don't require a daily walk outside. They love being around people and often want out of their cages just so they can be closer to you. Some even learn to talk.

You're not alone in considering a pet bird. In fact, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), birds are the 3rd most popular pet behind cats and dogs.

It all sounds great doesn't it? Slow down a little bit, before you rush out to buy a cockatiel or a parakeet, take some time to think about whether or not you are ready for a bird companion. There are a few things for you to consider before you decide if you're ready for the responsibilities that comes with parakeets and cockatiels.

Do yourself a favor and don't buy a parakeet or cockatiel until you ask yourself the following questions:

Do I have enough patience for a bird? Cockatiels and parakeets are social animals and they like attention. You should give them at least a half an hour of attention a day to keep them happy.

Am I a neat freak? All birds (not just cockatiels and parakeets) can be fairly messy. You're probably going to have some feathers and bird seed to pick up around the cage.

Can I care for my bird properly? You're taking the right first step by looking for information about birds. It's important for you to know all of your cockatiel's or parakeet's needs before you bring him or her home.

Don't make the mistake of assuming that since you already have a dog, cat or some other pet, that you know how to take care of a bird. Birds have very different needs than other pets. I'm afraid it's a little more complicated than sticking your bird in a cage and giving it water and birdseed.

Do I have room in my house for a bird cage and other 'bird accessories"? You need to think about where you're going to place the cage in your house before you walk in the door with it. And remember, the bigger the bird, the bigger the cage. (Be sure to study the do's and don't of cage placement. There are places in your house that are very dangerous for your bird.)

Do I have the time to give my bird what it needs? In addition to the time you should spend with your bird giving him or her attention, you should spend some time preparing meals for your bird. A proper diet for a healthy cockatiel or parakeet includes fresh vegetables and fruits - not just seeds.

Exactly what type of bird (and how many) do I want? Decide whether you want a female or a male bird. Maybe you would like to have a pair of birds so that you can breed them. It's easier to think through these types of questions now instead of waiting until you're talking to a breeder.

Am I ready for a long-term commitment? As I said above, it's not unusual for cockatiels to live 15-20 years and parakeets can live 12-14 years. Getting a pet bird is a long-term commitment. Please don't get a cockatiel or a parakeet thinking that you're going to "try it for a while". There are already too many birds in rescue and adoption centers.

Pet birds can bring a lot of fun and happiness into your home. If you don't know what to expect before you bring one home, you may be in for a surprise. However, if you've gone through the checklist above and decided that you're ready for a new feathered family member, then congratulations! Get ready for a long, loving and happy relationship.
Article Source: http://www.articleset.com

About the Author

Simon Blake is a bird lover and the author of Cockatiel Secrets and Parakeet Secrets. Discover how you can have a happy, healthy and well behaved pet bird. http://www.CockatielSecrets.com/ http://www.ParakeetSecrets.com/

» Read more articles by Simon Blake

The canary is named after the Canary Islands where they formerly lived undomesticated. Today, domesticated canaries live in all parts of the world. The canary species is S canarius and is a tiny fowl from the finch family Fringillidae. The popular canary is genus Serinus. Wild canaries can sing, but their songs are not as harmonious as those of the domesticated birds which have been bred for the high standard of their song. The canary is approx. 5-8 inches long with a wingspan of approx.7 inches and a weight of 15-20 grams. Wild canaries are a dark green and olive colored. Domesticated canaries are usually a bright yellow, although sometimes they may be orange, reddish, or pale yellow. Canaries construct nests of arid moss and weed. Its habitat is semi-open areas such as orchards and underbrush, where it nests in shrubs or trees.
Canaries should be kept in spotless cages, big enough to let the birds fly. Canaries consume canary seed but also like greens such as dandelion, spinach, green lettuce, and watercress and they can be fed a green leaf twice a week. Make certain you thoroughly rinse greens before giving them to your canary. Remove any left over’s before putting your canary to sleep. Canaries also can be given fruit which they care to peck at.

Attracting Birds

As people learn to enjoy the beauty of birds around their home, they may wish to improve the "habitat" in their yard so that more birds will visit their property. You can attract birds by placing bird feeders, nest boxes and bird baths in your yard, and by planting a variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers. These can provide good nesting sites, winter shelter, places to hide from predators and natural food supplies that are available year-round.


Landscaping for Birds

The most surefire way to attract birds to your backyard is to make certain the appropriate habitat is available to them. You may be lucky and already have a good supply of food, shelter, and water available for our feathered friends. In that case, you have to do little more than stand back and watch.

Bird Watching in Your Backyard
Bird watching, also known as birding, is one of the fastest growing forms of outdoor recreation in the country. Bird watching is perfect for any age and can be done anywhere. Birding is a very inexpensive hobby. Bird watching is the observation of wild birds rather than caged or domesticated birds. Birding is simply a matter of learning what to look or listen for. Bird watching is a good way for you to learn the species of birds that live in your specific area and see how they behave. Bird watching is a super reason to visit unique places and thrill to exotic bird species. You'll find people birding in just about any city, town or country.

Don't Miss Your Backyard Birds

Birds need water so it is essential to provide a water source. Birds are attracted to shallow water, so make sure that your birdbath is not too deep. Birds don't appear on command, on schedule, but that, too, is part of the fascination. Birds can be identified by using field guides and visually determining the bird's category (swimmer, flier, wader, bird of prey, fowl-like, etc.

Getting Involved in Birding

Bird Watching is also known as birding and means the activity of observing wild birds, except for the birds held captive. Birding is an activity that you can indulge in at any point of time and in any part of the world. Birding can be done in your backyard, in a forest, along the edges of water or in almost any area that satisfies some of the basic life requirements of birds. Birding is an easy way to connect with nature. Birding is a hobby that the entire family can enjoy together. Birding may seem difficult at first, but with a little study you will be able to identify many birds with just a quick look or a brief listen to their song.

Conclusion

Bird watching is a fantastic hobby that the whole family can enjoy. Bird watching is a family sport, which you can enjoy with your whole family and introduce the small children also about the surprise that nature has in store for you. Bird watching is good for your physical and mental health. Bird watching is a quiet as well as relaxing pursuit and for those who are rarity-seekers it may entail long distance traveling in order to find new species. Bird watching is a sport that is great for individuals looking for a bit of quiet time, as well as, friends or family looking to spend some time together.


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About the Author: Are you a bird watcher? Find out more about bird watching at http://www.wineenthusiastsupplies.com

Birdcages - How To Know What You Need?
By Terry EdwardsHave you been thinking of getting a pet bird, but have no idea what type of birdcage you need? Well, here is some help in discovering what kind of birdcage you need, as well as some other helpful items to put in it.

Keeping your pet parrot, canary, parakeet or other exotic bird happy is a priority for every pet owner. Without the right type and size of birdcage, this will be tough to accomplish.

When you begin looking for a birdcage you will find a wide variety of choices to pick from. But, most can be classed as either large birdcages or small birdcages.

So, which size do you need? Well, without knowing what kind of bird you have, it's impossible to say. But you can easily find out by looking online or talking with the pet store.

One tip to always keep in mind is that when it comes to pet birds, whether it's a parrot or a parakeet, size matters. Get a large birdcage. They will love the extra space!

What kind of material should your cage be made out of? Wood is the best choice, but acrylic birdcages are a nice all-around cage for any bird you may have.

Other things to look for include a bird cage cover to use at night. Get some toys to put in the cage also. Birds enjoy play time just like we do.

Have a food and water dish of course and put in a ladder as well.

Take your time when looking for a birdcage and shop around. Have a budget in mind and most importantly, have some fun with it. Birds make for great pets and having a nice large birdcage will make them very happy for years to come.

By the way, you can find out much more about [http://www.BirdCages.InfoFromA-z.com/Birdcages.html]Birdcages as well as more information on everything to do with bird cages on our website at http://www.BirdCages.InfoFromA-z.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Edwards
http://EzineArticles.com/?Birdcages---How-To-Know-What-You-Need?&id=705564

Bird Screaming Problem
By Tracie Irvine

How can I stop my bird from screaming so much?

Many people write me and ask if I can help them with their bird screaming problems. Some birds seem to constantly scream or when they do scream, they do it for minutes at a time. To us there doesn't seem to be a reason, but there really is a reason or the bird would not be screaming.

There are just too many reasons for bird screaming problems to cover everything here. I thought it best to highlight some of the things I have learned and then just present some ideas that might help stop some bird screaming behaviors.

If you are reading this article in hopes of finding a solution to stop all bird screaming, you will not find it here or anywhere. Most birds scream sometime, they are meant to scream and will always find a time to scream if they are healthy.

When is bird screaming normal?

The most common bird screaming time is early morning when the sun starts to rise and in the evening as the sun starts to set. It seems to just be built into birds to greet the sun and then tell it good night.

In reality, we are their flock and they want to make sure all the flock is in there with them when they wake up and then announce that it’s getting time to eat the evening meal and again that it is time find a roost for the night.

Instead of getting upset with your bird’s natural instinct, plan on it and even encourage it. Maybe even join them and become a part of the flock. (It can really be quite fun!) You won’t notice how loud they are when you join in too.

What about the other bird screaming times?

For all the other bird screaming times, you will have to put on your investigator hat and get out your pad and pen. Start paying close attention to exactly what happens before, during and after your bird vocalizes.

If you are really trying to solve a bird screaming issue that is threatening the relationship with your bird, you might even want to spend an entire day at home for this very purpose.

You will need to go about your normal routine and not give the bird any unusual attention to get to the root of the problem. You may have to do this several different days in some cases.

The bird screaming log

Have a log ready for writing on. In the margin of the log put the time of day, and draw three lines down the middle of the page. At the top of each column write, “Before", “During", and “After" so that you can keep up with the bird screaming events.

Then when the bird starts screaming, note what was going on just before the bird screaming began. For instance, “I’m on computer, husband in kitchen and kids outside in yard in view of parrot."

During the screaming, do and/or say what you normally do during the bird screaming events in your house. Write down exactly what everyone does or continues to do during each screaming session. When the bird screaming session ends, write down what everyone was doing and or saying when the bird quit screaming. Don’t leave anything out, every detail is important.

Continue to do this every single time there is a screaming session for the whole day, if you choose to try doing this in a whole day, or for several days when you are around the bird.

What to do with your bird screaming journal

Now that you have all these notes on your bird screaming sessions, what are you to do with them? You will be amazed sometimes at the patterns you will find. Because no two households are alike, I will not be able to help you specifically with your bird here, but I can help you look at your situation.

Read down the first column and note any consistencies. Such as, finding that many of the times that the bird started screaming someone was in the kitchen, or someone was dialing the phone. Do the same with the other columns. Then think about what you or others might do differently to help stop the bird from screaming in the first place.

How I stopped our bird screaming sessions

I have a couple of Green Cheeked Conures that used to give us grief several times a day with bird screaming sessions. One day we finally decided it was driving us crazy enough that we would take the time to figure out what was causing it.

At first we would just be careful not to reward the screaming behavior. When they would start the screaming session, we would pretend we didn’t see or hear them. This does work in a few cases, but usually you need to figure out what your bird really wants and avoid the issue instead of ignoring the issue.

After taking note of what we were doing, where everyone was located in the house, and where the birds were in reference to our locations, we quickly discovered the problem from our birds’ point of view.
Most of the times that our birds had screaming sessions, there was someone was in the kitchen, or someone had disappeared from site. Most of the time, one of us was in the kitchen when the bird screaming began.

We solved 80% of our bird screaming problem by taking the birds to the dining room stand, next to the kitchen, when one of us were going to be in the kitchen for more than a few minutes. When we did this, they did not scream. When we forgot, they would scream the entire time.

Our birds thought part of the flock was feeding on something and they were being left out. By taking them to the play stand in the dining room and giving them some healthy treats, they felt like they were foraging right along with the other flock member.

When we forgot and the bird screaming problem came about, we would get whoever was in the kitchen to leave the kitchen without acknowledging the birds and not go back until the birds quit screaming. Then we would move them to the play stand and the person could return to the kitchen.

We did this in that order so that the birds did not get rewarded for their bird screaming session. We don’t want them to think that they can start screaming and get us to come and get them. By waiting until they were quiet to come and get them, they did not get any rewards.

How to use your bird screaming journal to help you

Once you find some patterns, and there may be a lot more than one issue that bothers your bird, you will want to come up with solutions to head off the bird screaming situations.

Think of ways to prevent the situation that makes the bird screaming begin. For example, move the cage to where everyone is, spend time with the bird a few minutes every hour, provide foraging activities, have short bird training sessions to help the bird get some rewards for pleasing you. Clicker training is a great help sometimes.

Reinforce all good behaviors. Lavish attention on the bird when it is quiet, playing with toys, eating its healthy treats, and doing behaviors you want to continue.

Consider some bird training techniques. Clicker training has helped many people stop bird screaming behavior. Even teaching the bird to step up or wave can help. Spending time with your bird every day, doing bird training, and then following that up with some healthy treats in their bowl, will often satisfy the bird for quite a while.

There is so much more I could write on this subject, but this article would become a bird screaming book instead of a bird screaming article if I did.

Here is a short list of some things that I have found to cause bird screaming problems:

• Hormonal times

• Allergies to peanuts

• Allergies to artificial vitamins

• Allergies to chemicals and food coloring in food

• Other food allergies

• Lack of attention

• Being left out of “flock" activities

• Needing to go to bed

• Wanting more food or water

• Wanting a bath when hearing water run or rain outside

• Boredom, needing new toys, training, or foraging activities

• Loneliness

• Perceived danger for themselves or the “flock"

• Wanting peace and quiet

• Dislike of someone that has offended them

• Jealousy

• “Flock" member leaving the room or house

• “Flock" member returning and not joining them

• “Flock" eating without them or not sharing their food

• Change of diet, wishing for what they are used to eating

And the list goes on and on!

Some ideas for avoiding bird screaming

Clicker Training for Birds can help bird screaming problems fade away and be replaced with positive behaviors you want to encourage.

Getting a full spectrum light for your birds can make a real difference in your birds’ attitude and health. I explain the importance of full spectrum lighting on the Parrot and Conure World site.

Purchase pellets and mixes that are free of peanuts, artificial vitamins and additives. Many birds have stopped irritating bird screaming behaviors just by removing one or more of these items from their diet.

About the Author: Tracie has an informational parrot website and Discount Parrot Supply Store Discount Parrot Supply Store that carries the items mentioned above and many other items to enrich your birds’ life. She has quality cages at a discount, toys, play stands and play gyms, the Get A Grip nets, safety perches, a non-toxic cleanser that is safe for the whole house, and many more items.

Tracie encourages parrot owners to send pictures and write stories about what it is like to live with their parrot species for others to read, so they can make an educated decision about what bird is best for them. Her Parrot Comparison Chart is an excellent resource for those looking to add a new bird to their family.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tracie_Irvine
http://EzineArticles.com/?Bird-Screaming-Problem&id=542556

U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service
Traveling Abroad with
Your Pet Bird
The Wild Bird Conservation Act (Act), a significant step in international conservation efforts to protect exotic birds subject to trade, became effective
on October 23, 1992. The Act focuses on bird species listed in the Appendices to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Since most exotic pet birds (including parrots, cockatoos, and macaws but excepting budgerigars and
cockatiels) are species listed under CITES, most are affected by the Act.
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (Service) recently issued regulations
implementing the Act that provide for permits to allow foreign travel with your
pet bird (domestic travel and sales are not affected). If you plan to take your pet
bird with you on foreign travel, or your residence has been outside the United
States for a year and you plan to travel to the United States with a pet bird, you
will need to have a permit before you travel. These new regulations are in
addition to any other existing requirements of CITES, the Endangered
Species Act, and other applicable statutes. If you are unsure whether
these regulations apply to you, contact the Service’s Division of Management
Authority at the address provided.
Leaving the United States with Your Pet
Bird
To ensure that you will be allowed to bring your pet bird back into the United
States from travel abroad, you will need to take the following steps before you
leave:
1. Obtain a valid permit from the Division of Management Authority. Applications
for permits must be received in that office at least 60 days in advance of
anticipated travel.
2. Have your permit validated by a Fish and Wildlife Service Wildlife Inspector
before you leave the United States. (Instructions will be provided on the
permit.)
3. Take a copy of your validated permit with you. This copy must be presented
when you re-enter the United States with your pet.
4. Find out whether the country(ies) you plan to visit have additional import and
export requirements and restrictions. At a minimum, a re-export certificate
from the country(ies) visited will be required. The Division of Management
Authority can provide you with a contact address, phone or fax number for CITES
permits offices in other countries. There are no restrictions on the length of
time you may travel abroad or on the number of birds you may take with you.
Traveling to the United States with Your
Pet Bird
If your pet bird was acquired outside the United States or exported abroad from
the United States without a CITES permit, and you have resided outside the
United States constantly for 1 year, you may import a maximum of two pet birds
per person, per year, if all applicable requirements have been met prior to
their arrival in the United States.
Following are the steps you need to take before you leave for the United States:
1. Obtain a valid permit from the Division of Management Authority. Applications
for permits must be received in that office at least 60 days in advance of
anticipated travel.
2. Obtain documented evidence that you have resided outside the United States
continuously for a minimum of 1 year.
3. Obtain documented evidence that each bird was acquired legally.
4. Obtain all other necessary permits from the country(ies) of export, including
a CITES permit.
Note: The Act restricts the number of
pet birds individuals may import into the
United States annually. However, if your
bird is one of the following species you do
not need a WBCA permit to import your
pet .
Approved Captive-Bred Species
Order Falconiiformes:
Buteo buteo (European buzzard)
Order Columbiformes:
Columba livia(Rock dove)
Order Psittaciformes:
Agapornis personata (Masked lovebird)
Agapornis roseicollis (Peach-faced
lovebird)
Aratinga jandaya (Jendaya conure)
Barnardius barnardi (Mallee ringneck
parrot)
Bolborhynchus lineola (Lineolated
parakeet-blue form)
Bolborhynchus lineola (Lineolated
parakeet-yellow form)
Bolborhynchus lineola (Lineolated
parakeet-white form)
Cyanoramphus auriceps (Yellowfronted
parakeet)
Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae (Redfronted
parakeet)
Forpus coelestis (Pacific parrotlet-lutino
form)
Forpus coelestis (Pacific parrotletyellow
form)
Forpus coelestis (Pacific parrotlet-blue
form)
Forpus coelestis (Pacific parrotletcinnamon
form)
Melopsittacus undulatus (Budgerigar)
Neophema bourkii (Bourke’s parrot)
Neophema chrysostoma (Blue-winged
parrot)
Neophema elegans (Elegant parrot)
Neophema pulchella* (Turquoise
parrot)
Neophema splendida* (Scarlet-chested
parrot)
Nymphicus hollandicus (Cockatiel)
Platycercus adelaide (Adelaide rosella)
Platycercus adscitus (Pale-headed
rosella)
Platycercus elegans (Crimson rosella)
Platycercus eximius (Eastern rosella)
Platycercus icterotis (Western (stanley)
rosella)
Platycercus venustus (Northern
rosella)
Polytelis alexandrae (Princess parrot)
Polytelis anthopeplus (Regent parrot)
Polytelis swainsonii (Superb parrot)
Psephotus chrysopterygius* (Goldenshouldered
parakeet)
Psephotus haematonotus (Red-rumped
parakeet)
Psephotus varius (Mulga parakeet)
Psittacula eupatria (Alexandrine
parakeet-blue form)
Psittacula eupatria (Alexandrine
parakeet-lutino form)
Psittacula krameri manillensis (Indian
ringneck parakeet)
Purpureicephalus spurius (Red-capped
parrot)
Trichoglossus chlorolepidotus (Scalybreasted
lorikeet)
Order Passeriformes:
Aegintha temporalis (Red-browed finch)
Aidemosyne modesta (Cherry finch)
Chloebia gouldiae (Gouldian finch)
Emblema guttata (Diamond sparrow)
Emblema picta (Painted finch)
Lonchura castaneothorax (Chestnutbreasted
finch)
Lonchura domestica (Society
(Bengalese) finch)
Lonchura pectoralis (Pictorella finch)
Neochmia ruficauda (Star finch)
Poephila acuticauda (Long-tailed
grassfinch)
Poephila bichenovii (Double-barred
finch)
Poephila cincta (Parson finch)
Poephila guttata (Zebra finch)
Poephila personata (Masked finch)
Serinus canaria (common canary)
Applications and Additional Information
Permit applications (Form 3-200) and any
other information you may need are
available from the Division of
Management Authority (telephone
703.358.2104 or Fax 703.358.2281).
Warning: The Department of
Agriculture has disease quarantine
requirements for birds entering the
United States. You can obtain information
about quarantine requirements by
contacting the Department of
Agriculture at 301.734.8364.
U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service
International Affairs
Division of Management Authority
4401 N. Fairfax Drive, Room 700
Arlington, VA 22203
703/358-2104 or 800/358-2104
Fax 703/358-2281
e-mail: managementauthority@fws.gov
http://international.fws.gov
http://permits.fws.gov
October 1999

How To Get Started With Bird Watching
By Ronnie Booth

One of the great things about having a garden is getting to watch all the birds that flock to it. You'll only be able to see so many types of birds this way though. To get the most out of your bird watching, you need to go where you'll see the most types of birds.

One easy place to find lots of species of birds is your local park or nature reserve. You may also have a bird sanctuary near you - there are roughly 500 National Wildlife Sanctuaries in the US alone.

Another way to see some new varieties of birds is to research the local birds before going on any kind of trip. There are over 900 species of American birds, and they can be found in many different places. If you're going somewhere new, it pays to do a little research first so you'll recognize new birds you might see.

Binoculars are probably the most important piece of equipment for bird watching. You don't have to break the bank buying a pair, but you'll want to get some that can handle the weather and the terrain where you'll be.

Your binoculars should have some kind of stabilization built into them, especially if you'll be bird watching from a distance. They should also be able to work in low lighting, without fogging up.

Tracking birds while they're flying requires skill to locate them and track them quickly. The only way to get good at this is to practice so it's a good idea to do some practicing when you're not in the field. You can use your dog or your kids as a fast-moving practice.

Partnering up with someone else who enjoys bird watching can make it much more interesting. Two sets of eyes are better than one, and they might spot birds that you would have missed, and vice versa. They may also recognize different species than you so you can pool your knowledge.

Ronnie Booth writes about bird watching and other birding related topics for The Birding Guide website. Read more and sign up for the free newsletter at http://www.thebirdingguide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ronnie_Booth
http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Get-Started-With-Bird-Watching&id=334830

Platform Bird Feeders
What are platform bird feeders you may be wondering and what is their purpose with feeding birds? Well to put it simply a platform bird feeder is designed for birds who like to eat bird seed off of the ground. Platform bird feeders can be places slightly above ground, or the can be mounted off a deck a tree or a stump. You can also order a platform pole mount to mount your platform bird feeder on a pole.

The main difference between hanging bird feeders and platform bird feeders is that with a hanging bird feeder the bird seed is dispensed through a crack or a small opening in the bird feeder. With a platform bird feeder the bird seed is placed on a platform, or a plate and the birds peck the food from a pile or scattering.

With a platform bird feeder, or a tray bird feeder the birds that are attracted depends on the seeds, but if you are using a platform bird feeder, or fly thru feeder then you may end up seeing a cardinal and other various birds.

Platform bird feeders can also be squirrel proof. By having your platform bird feeder hang, squirrels are less likely to reach your bird seed, saving you money and allowing the various birds to eat. Some platform bird feeders, or tray bird feeders come with a screen big enough for the birds beaks, but too small for the hands of the squirrels, this is a great feature.

Platform bird feeders and tray bird feeders also know as ground bird feeders are easy to maintain and clean, and will bring different types of birds to your backyard than that of a hanging bird feeder. If you decide to buy a platform bird feeder, be sure that you have an adequate location in your yard before you make the purchase.

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About the Author: Visit http://www.aplusbirdfeeders.com for more great information on wild birds and bird feeders.

Pam Caouette is the main author for http://www.aplusbirdfeeders.com

Birds - Teaching Your Parrot To Talk - Part 3
By: Michael Russell

Article Word Count: 761
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In this last of our series of teaching your bird to talk we're finally going to get into the training process itself.

The best time to teach your bird to talk, if at all possible, is when the bird is right out of its nest. It is best to start training your bird while it is still on formula. When birds are this young they bond much easier with people. Practice patience with your bird and it will respond well. Don't expect a young parrot to start talking right away. While it is still "clucking" for food it is not going to be interested in learning speech, but exposing them to words at this young an age will prepare them for when they are ready to talk. They will recognize words at this age even though they are too young to talk. Smaller parrots will begin to speak between 4 and 6 months while larger parrots will begin to speak between 6 and 12 months.

After a year most parrots will not learn any new words. Some may still learn a new word from time to time but for the most part their learning days are over. Therefore picking an older bird that is also afraid of people gives you almost no chance of coming away with a talker. As for the sex of the bird, males are much better talkers than females. The problem is many times it is not possible to tell the sex of a bird just by looking at it. A blood test is often required.

The best time of day to teach your bird to talk is either early in the morning or late at night. This corresponds with the times when birds gather to eat and congregate with other birds. During these times parrots are very noisy. Don't try to quiet them. Just get used to it.

In order to make learning easier, positive reinforcement is a great tool. When your bird begins to talk, reward it with food, but try to give him healthy snacks. As this reinforcement continues your parrot will more look forward to the training sessions.

When teaching your bird to talk, turn off all TV sets and radios. You want it absolutely quiet. Let in lots of sunlight. You need to be the center of the bird's attention. When you speak to it, the bird will take notice. Say the word you are teaching the bird in a loud clear voice and hesitate between each repetition of the word. Try to associate the word with some kind of action. Birds learn quicker this way.

When teaching a bird to name objects pick an object that is small and bright in color. If the bird gets the word reward it by giving the bird the object.

Some easy words for parrots to learn are grape, paper, box, corn, carrot, nail, water, treat, bean, and rock. So try starting with these words.

The first words your parrot learns will be the hardest. After that they will begin to come easier until the bird reaches the age where it can't learn any more.

Teaching your bird to talk can be a very fun and rewarding experience. Have patience and follow the above guidelines and you should find that your parrot develops quite a vocabulary. You may, however, have a lot of trouble getting him to be quiet.

Article Source: Birds Guide

Bird Feeders: Look Who's Coming to Dinner
by: Allen Shaw

Birds, birds, birds. They come in all shapes and sizes. They range in type from carnivores to herbivores. Birds have been the stars of their own movies. Birds have taught children the importance of personality over looks. Some are even the leaders of nations. Is it any wonder that bird watching is one of the world's most practiced hobbies.

People from all walks of life enjoy bird watching. Anyone can do it. All it requires is patience, a pair of binoculars and most importantly, a bird feeder. And there are many types. Depending what birds you want to attract will determine what kind of feeder to get.

Hummingbird feeders are the most popular and come in two styles; inverted and basin style. The feeder usually has a small receptacle in which a sugar solution is placed. It has an opening just big enough for the hummingbird to put its long beak. But the solution is really just an energy boost for the hummingbird. A hummingbird's main diet is gnats and other small bugs. Here's a hint when choosing a hummingbird feeder. Choose one that can be taken apart easily. Your feeder needs to be cleaned every three-to-four days due to the unfortunate clotting habit of the sugar and water solution.

If you are a Woody fan, you might consider a peanut feeder. Woodpeckers, starlings and titmice are big fans of peanuts. But be sure you purchase the peanuts from a dealer that supplies aflatoxin-free peanuts. Aflatoxin fungus can cause disease and death for some birds. Also, make sure the peanut feeder is built to keep out squirrels. Squirrels are the biggest enemy to the peanut feeder.

Hopper feeders are the type of feeder most people picture in their mind when they think of a bird feeder. Most look like a small house and have a tray at the bottom. Tray feeders attract chickadees, sparrows and blue jays. Sunflower seeds are the most popular feed for tray feeders. The bigger the feeder, the easier they are to clean.

Next on the agenda, tube feeders. Most tube feeders are made of a clear plastic and have holes drilled in the side with a small perch beside each hole to make the seed accessible to the bird. Tube feeders attract a large variety of smaller birds like finches, titmice and grosbeaks. When buying a tube feeder, look for ones with a large storage capacity. Also look for feeders with metal reinforcing to help keep out squirrels and larger birds. A tube feeder with a tray at the bottom will help catch the seeds that fall when the messy birds come to dinner.

Tray feeders are the simplest and least expensive types of feeders. They can be as simple as a plate from your kitchen cupboard. Because they hold less seed than other types of feeders, the ones made close to the ground are usually best. Tray feeders attract sparrows, doves, cardinals and other birds that prefer eating close to mother earth. When purchasing a tray feeder, look for ones that allow for drainage in case it rains.

But the number one thing you should look for when purchasing a feeder of any kind is convenience. Make sure they are easy to clean, easy to refill and durable. From personal experience, I have learned that once the birds get used to being fed in the same place at the same time every day, you can't get rid of the little buggers.

Article Source: http://www.ArticleCity.com/

Birds - Parakeet Care
By: Michael Russell
Article Word Count: 711
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Parakeets are one of America's most popular birds today. They make great pets because they are very friendly, have a cheerful disposition and are very entertaining. They also have very beautiful bright color varieties. Parakeets don't require a lot of maintenance or money.

Parakeets are also known as Budgies or Keets. They are one of the smallest members of the parrot family. They originate from a desert-like area of Australia where it doesn't rain much, which makes parakeets very hardy birds. There are a variety of colors, such as yellows, dark greens, pastel blues, purples, solid whites and many combinations of several colors. The average life span of parakeets is 8 to 12 years.

In the wild, parakeets are flocking birds so they are used to companionship, so it is best to get more than one. However, keep the birds separate when they are young so that they will get used to humans. When they get older then you can put them together. If you plan on keeping just one bird, you should play with it as much as possible. You should also put a mirror in the cage so that they won't feel so alone when you aren't there.

You should choose the largest cage that you can afford for your parakeet. It needs to be large enough so that he can comfortably move around. You will also need room for toys and perches. The minimum size is 20" X 12" X 18". Parakeets are very playful and inquisitive. Because of this, they enjoy playing with a variety of toys. They especially love shiny objects, bells, bright colors and objects they can move around with their beak. Be sure that the toys you purchase don't contain any small parts that your bird could swallow and choke on.

Lots of parakeets take a long time to build trust in their owners. It will probably be very shy when you first get one. Every day you should just put your finger in the cage in front of the bird. Eventually it will get the courage to get on your finger. If you have the patience your bird will learn to trust you, but some birds even can take months to build trust.

Parakeets love to sing and chirp. They seem to love when you play music and will often sing along. When you are gone, you might want to leave the radio on for them. Most parakeets won't learn to talk. However, it is possible to teach some of them if you are consistent.

Parakeets always need fresh food and water in the cage. They are vegetarians and like seeds, greens and fruits. Their food should have a large variety of millet seeds and grain. Ready made seed mixes are sold at pet stores and supermarkets. Other than the seed mix, you should also provide fresh greens. However, do not leave these in the cage long or they will spoil.

The best way to keep your bird healthy is by providing a good diet and by keeping the water and cage clean. Make sure you clean and sanitize all the toys and accessories in the cage also. Birds are very good at hiding illnesses so if you think your bird is acting strangely at all, be sure to take it to the vet.

Parakeets are fun to watch and make a great companion pet. If you provide the correct care for your bird and spend plenty of time with it, you will have a great pet for a long time to come.

Article Source: Birds Guide